Eating in Kathmandu

After trekking up to Everest Base Camp and eating a basic diet of rice, rice and more rice when I arrived back to Kathmandu the last thing I wanted to do was eat more Nepalese food. My tastebuds were craving something different! So I went out exploring and found some delicious and beautiful cafes and restaurants to delight your tastebuds!

Places to eat in Kathmandu:

Gaia

Located off the main street on Jyatha street, this gem is tucked away in a corner with a lovely garden-theme style café. It is super cheap and food is plentiful not to mention super tasty. The dishes ranges from traditional Nepalese to Italian and basic sandwiches so no matter what you feel like, you can choose something yummy. Not to mention it’s a great place for a margarita which will only set you back $3.

OR2K

Sitting above a cheap and cheerful takeaway joint is the restaurant OR2K. It is on the second floor and a very cute place to sit down for a meal. Shoes must be taken off and guests sit around a low table on colourful cushions to enjoy a meal. The standout here are the falafels and hummus so make sure to treat yourself to a plate!

Fire and Ice Pizzeria

Nothing says comfort food like traditional Italian food and while it is far, far away from Italy it still serves a drool-worthy pizza that will make your belly smile. I am pleased to say it had my favourite pizza combo, rocket, prosciutto and cheese so I tucked in! Desserts feature the classic ice-cream and chocolate sauce combo to the more deluxe tiramisu. It’s a nice change from rice!

Rosemary’s Kitchen

Although I didn’t manage to get here myself this place comes with high reviews. Featuring cuisine from Nepal, India, Asia and Europe it has something for everyone. Not to mention a regular happy hour where the cheap becomes even cheaper! Dig in.

Spice Garden

Renowned for their delectable Indian food this place is a mecca for Indian-cuisine-lovers. Again I didn’t manage to get around here but the reviews are worth checking it out for. Tuck in to some traditional Indian food without ever leaving Nepal.

Your guide to trekking Everest Base Camp – what to expect. Read it here!

Everest Base Camp FAQ’s

Hiking up to Everest Base Camp not knowing what to expect can be slightly daunting. Simple things like knowing how much clothing is enough, or how much toilet paper should you bring suddenly seem like big issues. To ensure you have the best time and enjoy every day, here is a compilation of frequently asked questions to get you ready!

Q. Will it be cold?

A. This entirely depends on when you’re going but yes, expect it to be cold and sub-zero temperatures at Base Camp. I went in April which was sunny and warm when hiking during the day (wearing only long hiking pants and a singlet top). After Namche you will find yourself wearing a windbreaker or jumper during the day. From Dingboche to basecamp (last 2 days) I also wore a beanie, scarf and gloves and thermal top and pants. At night times you will wear every single layer you own. It reached -19 at Gorakshep during the night.

Q. What clothes will I need to bring?

A. Everyone has a different answer for this one, but I took with me

• 4 pairs sport socks and 3 pairs thick hiking socks (one pair I slept in only)
• new pair of underwear for every day
• long hiking pants
• thermal pants (also wore these as ‘casual’ leggings at night for dinner)
• sport bras
• 3 exercise, sweat-wicking shirts
• thermal top
• thermal/wool jumper
• exercise jumper
• big thick wool jumper
• wind-proof jacket
• 3 beanies, 1 pair ski gloves, scarf and a neck warmer
• hiking shoes and canvas shoes (great for walking around town after hiking or on acclimization days)
• PJ’s

Q. What toiletries do I need?

A. Getting sick while hiking makes for a very uncomfortable couple of days. I suggest taking everything you think you might need. You can’t shower after day 2 so don’t stress about washing your hair but pack

• panadol and ibuprofen
• gastro-stop or immodium based product
• Diamox (altitude sickness medicine)
• face wipes and moisturizer
• toothbrush and toothpaste
• baby wipes for a makeshift shower
• toilet paper (around 5 rolls for a couple for 8 days keeping in mind most people suffer a bout of gastro at some point)
• Hydralyte and Berocca – great for a kick of energy and some vitamins
• Menthol lollies

Q. Is it hard?

A. This depends on the person but I would say it is medium-to-difficult. The guide will ensure you walk quite slowly so you never feel over-exerted like you do when you go for a run or walk up a very long steep hill. As the pace is slow and breaks frequent most people should be able to manage providing they are of reasonable health and fitness. In our group ages ranged from 14-28 years old and in another group ages were around 55-65 and everyone completed it. The uphill and downhill can be tough on your knees and hips but otherwise every hill ends soon enough! It is mind over matter. Ignore the hard bits and push on. You’ll arrive exhausted but feel good to go again the next day.

Q. How much walking is there?

A. The trek takes eight days up and 4 days down. On the way up you’ll walk everyday ranging from 5-8 hours but on acclimatization days you only walk for about an hour to get used to the higher elevation and then can relax for the afternoon. Read a day-by-day guide here!

Q. What camera should I take?

A. The best one you have! This really is an incredible experience and the views are magnificent! Take the best camera you can get your hands on as you don’t want to miss out on taking some brilliant photos. I took a GoPro, proper big fancy camera and my Iphone 6s. I ended up forgetting my memory card for the GoPro so it didn’t work and I didn’t even end up using the fancy camera, just my Iphone. I was lucky enough to upgrade my phone right before I went so I had a great camera on it which took quality photos so I felt no need to bring out the big camera. However Iphones do switch of in the cold, below 0 degrees so if you’re going in winter be aware that you may need a proper camera which can handle the cold as an Iphone wouldn’t.

Q. What kind of food is there?

On the mountain expect plain food with a lot of rice, potatoes and bread. All the food eaten is either grown there or carried up so avoid all meat as it is not fresh and can be risky to eat. Common dishes are dal bhaat (rice, veggies and some sort of curry), momos (dumplings), curry, breads, porridge and a lot of potato and carrots. Often breakfast is eggs and toast or porridge and lunch and dinner is mostly rice based. Bring your own sweet snacks up like lollies and chocolate.

Q. Can you buy things on the mountain?

Yes you can buy pretty much anything and everything at Namche Bazaar (day 2). This is the last big market so anything you need it is wise to grab. Here I bought a water bottle, water purification tablets, lollies and toilet paper. You can regularly stock up on lollies and toilet paper on the way but that’s about it. I recommend taking anything you think you will need with you.

Q. Is it worth it?

A. It is tough but it is completely and utterly worth it. You will be challenged both physically and mentally, you’ll have to talk to yourself and tell yourself “one more step” a million times, you’ll have to walk when you don’t want to, struggle to breathe and climb over rocks but each time you stop remember to look up. The glorious mountain range which ebbs different hues of blue, from grey-tinged blue, to dusty-blue, white-speckled blue, dark blue outlines and a brilliant royal blue sky. Nature here is truly incredible and will take your breath away more than once. Enjoy the silence, enjoy every rock you clamber over, enjoy the large mountains that start to look small and enjoy the trek to Base Camp as it is one of the most inspiring and beautiful hikes you may ever do.

Thinking of doing it and have another question? Ask away!

 

Your guide to trekking Everest Base Camp: part 2

Day 4 – Namche bazaar to Tengboche

Before lunch the walk is an easy relatively flat hike but after lunch its all uphill. A steady 3 hours of steps and hills brings us to the Tengboche monastery. The towns are getting fewer and fewer and toilets are turning into rocks with trees. At this point we are around halfway and starting to notice the lack of air. Breathing is slightly harder and quicker as your body attempts to draw in more oxygen. Lucky for me I have no side effects from taking Diamox, however others have tingly hands and feet and their bathroom usage has quadrupled. We all take of our shoes and sit in on a ceremony at the monastery, blessing those who are summiting Everest. I sit cross -egged on the cold floor staring at the summiting groups. They also sit cross-legged, their eyes closed and heads slightly down. The monks hum in different tunes creating a deep reverberating sound that rocks itself into your bones. I can’t help but stare and wonder why they want to ascend nearly 8,800m above sea level, their bodies shutting down at 7,000m literally dying as they reach the highest point in the world.

We were told no more running water but when we arrive at Tengboche our lodge not only has indoor toilets but also has running water. Our guide also tells us not to eat any meat or eggs as because they have to be carried up they’re not safe to eat by the time they arrive. Instead we tuck into the usual; rice or noodles.

Day 5 – Tengboche to Dengboche

Today is easy, the path is relatively flat or as the Nepalese like to say its Nepali flat, little up and little down. I’ve come down with a head cold and feeling congested which makes breathing even harder. Every breath is laboured and strained. It is steadily getting colder during the day and from time to time I switch between my jumper and windbreaker.

Unfortunately gastro makes its first appearance for everyone and we’re all popping gastro-stop. There are no toilets on the track and even when we hit a small village the only available toilet is a hole cut into the wooden floor of a small square wooden cube. The landscape has drastically changed, trees are few and far between, shrubbery is disappearing and it’s starting to look barren. It is so silent and serene, the only noise is the slap of my feet on the ground, the tinkling of a loose rock and my haggard breathing.

Day 6 – Acclimatization day

This morning we get a sleep in till 8am before tucking into warm porridge for breaky then we start our acclimatization hike. A strenuous, steep and difficult hour climb which is almost vertical it is so steep. Sadly, a girl in our group has severe gastro and is stuck in bed all day, the rest of us are fine and soldier on. The only thought running through my mind is just one step, just one more step. It is cold and windy, I am bundled up in a jumper, windbreaker, beanie and gloves. My neck is bunched down and my face towards my feet as I concentrate on placing my feet between the rocks and push onwards and upwards. I concentrate on breathing in through my nose and out through my mouth, struggling to get enough air in. My breathing is loud as I hit the top and slowly, between gulping down water, I managed to control it enough to stand with my mouth agape at the glorious view.

It is like a sea of rocky hills, each one ascending and descending creating a jagged line in the blue sky. White-topped, the ice dribbles down into crevasses, the wind whips against my face drowning out the sound of my breath and a black long-winged bird floats in sky letting itself be carried before swooping down, soaring back up again to float, starting the whole process again. We all stand there smiling at the earth’s beauty. This is why I am climbing to base camp, to see pictures like this. It’s real, raw and incredible.