The three cities of Germany: Part 1

With a total of 4.5 months to travel around Europe, spending some time in Germany was at the top of my list. Berlin especially, was a city I wanted to visit after hearing so many good stories about it, and only having spent one night there two years ago I was looking forward to exploring the city in depth. We chose to spend four nights in Berlin, then slowly moved across the country on our way to The Netherlands, spending 3 nights in Hamburg and 3 nights in Cologne.

Berlin

Berlin is definitely a city that’s rich in culture and history. It permeates every aspect of the city and here you can find memorials and museums dotted around that tell an engaging and devastating story of World War two. There is a strong belief in remembering the past to prevent it happening again, which means the stories you can read in the museums are detailed and give you a real insight into the tragedies that occurred so many years ago. Just walking around you will get a feel for all the different museums and can choose to visit just one, or all the ones you come across.

We visited the Holocaust Memorial, which is under the holocaust memorial just down from Brandenburg Tor and Topography of Terror. The first one gives a brief overview on World War two and then each room is dedicated to telling someone’s story: I read about families who survived Auschwitz, daughters who were the sole survivors of families, children escaping the war – people’s memories and experiences are all on display and it is an extremely moving and personal insight into the lives of people who endured such tragedies.

Topography of Terror is also another fantastic museum in which you could easily spend hours there. We walked around from exhibit to exhibit and spent three hours there on our first visit just reading about the war. It’s arranged chronologically so you move through it with clarity and there are many, many pictures which all tell a story. These two are just the tip of the iceberg but are a fantastic recount of the horrific years gone by and I highly recommend visiting them. Both are free to do, and the maximum waiting time is 15 minutes for the Holocaust Memorial.

And, make sure to visit the Berlin Wall and Berlin Wall memorial. The painted wall is truly a spectacular site.

 

While Berlin does have a great focus on history, there are also many other great reasons to visit the city if you’re not a history buff. The city is easy to walk around and there are plenty of cafes, restaurants, fast-food outlets and shopping centres to keep everyone happy and well-fed, plus it really is a cheap city! Germany has a reputation for great food and beer, which I was more than happy to experience first hand. Curry-wurst is interesting but actually kind of delicious, not to mention my favourite, a Bratwurst with tomato sauce (Ketchup) and mustard and to wash down the food you can’t go wrong with a German beer especially considering it’s dirt cheap. Doner Kebabs are also another cheap and cheerful meal that cost around 3-5 euro and are extremely big and filling. Again, wash down with any German beer for a nice meal. While Bavarian food didn’t seem to be that big in Berlin if you look hard enough you can always find a Schnitzel or Pork Knuckle which are always delicious.

In the city centre, right behind Brandenburg Tor is the lovely city park. It’s a huge expanse of greenery our tour guide likened to New Yorks Central park, just to give you an idea of size. Apparently in the summer, senior men like to go there to play naked volleyball but happily I was not privileged to witness this and instead spent a rather peaceful afternoon munching on cheese, figs and bread in the sun, listening to the birds and lying on a rug. Taking a stroll through here is a great way to get away from the bustle and bustle of the city and take a break to enjoy a cold beer, ice-cream or lunch.

We were super lucky and on our last day just in front of the park there was a fair with stalls and stalls of sausages and beer, among other food and drinks, lots of tables and chairs and a big stage where local bands, dancers and musicians all played. Grabbing some food and beer we enjoyed listening to the German songs and were pleasantly surprised with some English songs too. There really is nothing better than sitting in the sun with live music and a cold beer in a beautiful day in Berlin.

With so much in Berlin, it’s hard to know where to start. Here are my top recommendations:

Top things to do in Berlin

• Visit the Holocaust Memorial and the museum underneath it
• Visit the Topography of Terror
• Stand where Adolf Hitler committed suicide in his bunker (its now a carpark)
• See Checkpoint Charlie
• Take a stroll through the city park. Don’t forget a picnic!
• Walk from the Berlin Dome to Brandenburg Tor
• Try German Beer and German food (Bratwurst, Currywurst, Doner Kebab)
• Head out for a wild night in German clubs
• Walk along East Side Gallery
• See the Berlin Wall, and visit the Berlin Wall memorial
• Walk down Oranienburger Straße. It’s such a lively street full of eateries!
• Visit the food markets! There is a great one on Thursday nights called the International food market. We got an amazing Taiwanese pork bun, some Arancini balls and gelato.
• Get lost. Berlin really is a wonderful city so put on your walking shoes and create your own adventure.

Berlin is one of my all time favourite cities in Europe! What’s yours?

 

For more photos see my instagram: madeleine.curby

The truth about hot air ballooning in Turkey

“But what was your favourite thing you did?”. If I had a dollar for every time someone has asked me that, I would be back in Europe buying German beer, Italian Gelato and a Greek Gyro. With the demands of University and work starting to take over, conjuring up memories of the past eight months spent hopping between cities, beds and restaurants are a delight.

It is impossible to choose just one thing that was amazing, because in reality everything was special. Every moment was worth doing, every experience worth having and every memory worth keeping. There are things I would do again, such as hiking up Montenegro’s fortress walls, and things I wouldn’t do again such as riding a camel when suffering from 3-day long Gastro in the Moroccan desert.

While I could never pick a favourite, one of my most sublime and breath-taking memories in is Cappadocia Turkey. I’d learnt the odd bits and pieces of Turkish history in school and heard about it from friends and family; namely my parents who travelled there when they were young adults and were chased by a madman wielding a knife shouting in Turkish. Sounds fun…

But we decided to make a “pitt-stop” in our epic journey and stay for around 14 days. in Cappadocia, we were given the option to ride a hot air balloon at sunrise over fairy caves and valleys. Undeterred by the steep price (around $250 AUS), Alex and I had our clothes laid out and alarms set for 3:30am the next day, when an organised bus service would pick us up and take us out.
It was a fresh morning and for once I used the cardigan buried at the bottom of my suitcase. The bus turned up on time and a group of us hustled on, eyes still half-closed with sleep. We were dropped off at a permanent tent-like structure where breakfast of cookies and coffee was served. Nothing says sweet tooth like a chocolate chip cookie at 4 in the morning; needless to say Alex happily munched down on a few.

Soon, we were ushered away into big 4WD cars and taken out to another field. The sun was just beginning to rise, washing the landscape in a faint yellow glow that illuminated the dips and rises of the land before us. Rushes of bright yellow flames were powered into the bottom of a balloon, and obligingly it begun to stand up, rising bit by bit. Other balloons were in the sky, and we stood by impatiently watching, scared we would miss the sunrise.

When we were allowed in, we all scrambled in desperate to get up in to the sky. The balloon is slow to rise, yet somehow you look away for just one second and the ground suddenly seems so far. The bottom of our box crashed over a tree tearing off a branch and others grabbed out to pinch some leaves. Up, up, and up we go!

The sky seems empty and then all of a sudden bright coloured dots start to appear from nowhere. More and more balloons start appearing and it’s surreal to watch them. Some are lit by the glowing sun, their red and yellow bodies surging into the air while their captive audiences take photos like there’s no tomorrow. Other balloons are just silhouettes against the sun, their dark shape blacking out pockets of light. They are everywhere. The sun is getting higher and higher, the faint yellow becoming stronger as pastel oranges decorate the sky.

It’s like the sky is awash with balloons.

You would think the amount of balloons would ruin the serenity of the moment. Yet it’s the complete opposite. The air is so still, there is no noise and there’s something magical about watching a balloon rise up to meet the greeting sun. The sheer number of them is part of the magic. The only noise is the click of cameras, as everyone wants the perfect photo.

While ‘favourite’ is a box I cannot fit anything into, greeting the morning sun while being suspended in a floating box, is definitely an experience I would do again. And one that comes pretty darn close to ‘favourite’.

     

The 5 towns of Cinque Terre, Italy

Being lucky enough to spend 3 nights in Cinque Terre we saw a lot of the 5 beautiful towns along Italy’s rugged coast line. Here’s my favourite part about each one.

Riomaggiore
This is the first town, where we stayed and also coincidentally our favourite. It was less busy and touristy, had some great food and a beautiful port for swimming, reading in the sun and taking photos of the gorgeous little town. It feels Italian and locals can be seen tending to their lemon trees or vineyards in the late afternoon. We stayed in an apartment, called Cinque Terre holidays which was 2 rooms crammed with 8 beds each but we were lucky and virtually had the place to ourselves. The apartment had a small balcony where we sat every morning to have breakfast and watch the sun rise, and every night for dinner to watch the sun set over town.
Things to try:
– sea food cones. There’s a small take away shop on the Main Street that sells cones of fresh hot seafood. They are delicious so make sure to grab one.
– fresh pesto. Pesto is sold in literally every shop and restaurant. We found a small deli that made their own and had pesto pasta with seafood one night. It was scrumptious!
– focaccia. Cinque Terre is the birthplace of this divine delicacy and Paulina’s bakery is a small shop near the top of the street that sells slices for cheap. Once you have one you can’t stop.

Manarola
Manarola is the 2nd town in line, and while lovely, it’s not a great place to take a dip. It’s very small and the Main Street leads you straight down to the port. The water was always very rough and difficult to get in and out. Instead cool off with some gelato and tuck into some local food. A small restaurant called Porticcioli serves the most amazing seafood spaghetti I’ve ever indulged in. The pasta was silky and al dente, the tomato sauce rich and bursting with flavour and the seafood tasted fresh. It was divine, I could of eaten it every day.
Things to try:
– the most incredible walk starts here and ends at Corniglia. It is a mountain walk, not coastal so it’s rather hard but worth the views.
– eat seafood spaghetti. Words cannot describe how delicious it is. I think I may of even licked my plate.

Corniglia
Set 365 steps up from the train station, the 3rd town offers some spectacular views given its higher location. Again it’s a tiny town clustered with houses and restaurants. We didn’t stay long in this town as we ended our big walk here and were exhausted but walk along the perimeter as well as through town to see gigantic mountains awash with greenery that descends down to a deep blue ocean. It’s a great place to stop and admire the view. Around the back of town is a small organic bar that sells their own wine and vineyards creep along the outdoor setting. It is a great spot to relax and enjoy the local products.
Things to try:
– relaxing and admiring the view.
– enjoy a glass of wine, or two.. No-ones watching and your on holidays!

Vernazza
The second last town is the best for swimming. The narrow road takes you straight from town to the water which is actually a little bay and perfect for taking a dip, then lie on the sand to dry off. Unfortunately it was hit by a flood in 2011 and signs of damage are still evident. Near the beach are tons of gelato shops so get yourself a scoop!
Things to try:
– swimming. No other town has a bay so enjoy the water.
– gelato. Pile scoops of fresh homemade gelato into a cone and enjoy. Italian gelato is like nothing else.

Monterosso al Mare
This is the last time and the most touristy and busy town of them all. It has a few beaches, the main ones being dotted with red and yellow umbrellas that are for hire. It has more than one street, and alleyways are filled with people browsing the shops and eating at the restaurants. There are also resorts here, which is unlike any other towns so be wary if you don’t like lots of people.
Things to try:
– more gelato. You need to try every flavour don’t you.. Treat yourself and enjoy one by the water
– varied selection of restaurants and accommodation. Want some luxury, or have a fussy travel companion that can’t decide on food.. Monterosso has the greatest selection of food and accom so there’s something for everything.

 

Sunday Snaps: The streets of Bruge

The city of Bruge; quaint, picturesque and filled with shops selling the most delicious treats you can get your hands on; chocolate! Circling the city is a canal and sloped grassy mounds perfect for having a picnic, if weather permits. Little streets wind you through the town and if you look closely you can find gorgeous spots to stop and take a picture.

Portugal in a nutshell

With a minimal 3 nights in Lisbon and 3 nights in lagos I was eager to experience as much of the Portugese culture as I could. Lisbon is a beautiful city and much like every European city is filled with monuments, statues and gorgeous cobble-stone streets. The best hing to do here is wander around, from the port to the main square, to all the winding alleyways and hills that offer spectacular views you will not get bored.
My favourite things to do are:

• walk. Just go on an adventure and find your own favourite place to relax and enjoy Lisbon.
•   
• visit Belem. Just a short 15min tram ride away is the Belem Tower and monastery. The monastery is a lot smaller than expected but so serene and beautiful it makes up for its size. Here you can read lots of history about the building or enjoy it’s peaceful green courtyard that’s surrounded by ornate carved wooden walls that are exquisite to admire.
• eat pastels del nata. These famous portugese tarts are incredibly delicious and you’ll be doing yourself a disservice to miss out. There is a small blue pastry shop just down from Belem monastery that is famous for its pastries, and with reason. They are delicious! Another great spot in Lisbon is Manteigaria. Mine was warm and fresh out of the oven, I tried it like a local, with a sprinkling of cinnamon and icing sugar and am still day-dreaming about it now.. Next door is also a great bakery which sells Gods Bread – treat yourself again and buy one for a mere $1 euro, they are scrumptious! And kind of taste linebackers delight finger buns (sweet bread buns with icing).

• see St George castle. Dotted around the castle are little areas of green where locals sit to enjoy some wine and food. Don’t be shy to copy them, they’re there for a reason. Grab your own picnic, hike up and relax. The views are rewarding and look out over Lisbon.
• go to Barrio Alto. This area comes alive at night (we mean 11pm onwards) and the tiny cobbled streets are filled with those eager for a drink. Bars and clubs open everywhere and people spill outside, drink in hand, making friends and having a good time. Make sure to join in.
• visit the local restaurants. Just up a hill from the main square this bubbling little restaurant has the best salmon steak I have ever had in my life. It is literally bursting with flavour and just flakes apart with a fork leaving you mouth sized pieces of slightly charred skin and juicy pink flesh to devour. Walk up the little hill on your left, climb the stairs, turn right and there’s a little restaurant with tables and chairs all over the pavement. From here you can see the castle between the buildings too, and watch the sun disappear with good food and wine.

Sightseeing in Russia: Part two

After 3 nights we ventured away from St Petersburg to Moscow, which felt like it operated on a much faster and busier clock. An easy 1.5 hr flight, or 8hr train trip, I opted for the flight, getting between the two cities is quite easy. I stayed at a fantastic hostel just up from the Red Square, called Vagabond Hostel and it was pretty cheap too. Moscow is not a friendly city, it’s rare to see people smile on the streets and the air is so frigid and cold you don’t feel welcomed but putting that aside Moscow is a fantastic city to visit in terms of its history and again, its architecture. The buildings are impending and intimidating, just walking along the streets you feel the might of the buildings, almost like they are closing in on you.

We arrive on a cold, wet rainy day in the late afternoon but we were way too excited to see the red square and ignored the bad weather and set off. An easy 8 minute stroll from our hostel we reached the Red Square, which actually has nothing to do with the red buildings, it was named beautiful square as when the square was named, red and beautiful were interchangeable terms – a little fun fact. Walking through the square, the History Museum is behind us, GUM to our left, Lenin’s dead body to our right and behind that the Kremlin while in front of us was another glorious church known as St Basils cathedral. The outside is spectacular and is of a red colour with domed turrets that gleam in a range of colours: there is a blue and white striped dome, green and white stripes, gold dome with green lines that form diamond shapes and red and green stripes to name some. Ivan the terrible built to as a way of repenting for his sins and named it St Basils as Basil was a local drunk whose company Ivan enjoyed and when Basil died named the church after him. Inside is a maze of corridors and little rooms that lead you around and around and just when you think you’re lost you pop out at the end. Leaving here we visited GUM, which was a state department store in the Soviet Union but now houses some of the worlds most exclusive brands. There are multiple ice-cream shops in GUM and its tradition to eat one when visiting so don’t be surprised if everyone inside the building is eating ice-cream – we were surprised at first but were more than happy to join in.

The Kremlin is also worth visiting and is an old fortress that mainly consists of a number of churches. Some are quite spectacular and are huge inside, while others are very small and can only hold about 5 people comfortably at one time, and another one was filled with tombs of past bishops. The Kremlin is quite expensive, 700rubles for an adult but is a site of such historical importance it’s well worth visiting. Located just next door is the armoury, which is also 700 rubles and hols some of Moscow’s riches. They don’t let you take photos inside and it’s easy to see why. There are book coverings that would be worth more than a house in Sydney! Gold platings that are set with precious stones, jewellery consist of gold, rubies, emeralds and other stones. The audio set is free with a ticket and is worth getting for a bit of insight in to some of the different pieces.

Another church well worth visiting is the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour or commonly referred to as the big white church. It is an impressive looking white building that has one big dome and two small domes that are plated in gold. Inside is one of the most beautiful piece of artwork I have ever seen. Paintings cover the wall, gold hangs from the ceiling reflecting the light and bringing the interior to life while the red tapestries create an illusion of wealth and luxury. Light streams in through the stained glass windows sprinkling light across the floors and walls. Not being allowed to take photos here either, we spent a good 30 minutes just standing and absorbing the incredible beauty of this church. Insiders tip: find the stairs leading down and go check it out. The bottom floor is also spectacular. When we finally dragged ourselves out, we saw a giant statue not too far off and decided to see what it was. After only 10 minutes we came across it, which was located in Gorky park. Lucky for us the sun was shining and we strolled through the park, which had markets on and we got to sample some delicious treats. There was also some live music playing and bean-bags were dotted along the grass which made a perfect spot to relax and enjoy lunch.

 

There are lots of things to do and see in Moscow, namely being the Red Square but the best advice is to just keep looking around, same with St Petersburg. The cities were built with grandeur in mind and they show it off extremely well. A trip to Russia should be on everyone’s list as it has such unique, interesting and exquisitely beautiful cities to see.

Frolicking in France

Having spent two months travelling Europe, I was now faced with the task of choosing my favourite moments or maybe just the interesting moments to share. Looking back now, my trip seems like a whirlwind. An amazing collection of memories, which only some come fluttering back.

 

A moment of my trip, which may seem so small and insignificant compared to the amazing monuments I’ve seen, the amazing people I’ve met and the experiences I’ve had was in Nice. Our hostel was located above a pub which raged into the early hours of the morning. This was fine if you were out partying too otherwise you had to listen to drunk people shouting and yelling for hours while trying to sleep in a 40 degree humid room. Cant say it was the best sleep. Once this pub closed about 3-4am construction next door started at 5am!

Safe to say staying in this room sucked. The constant noise and screeching of drills from 5am onwards was enough to give anybody a headache, alcohol induced or not.

 

Luckily the location of this hostel was, quite simply put, the best. Only a 90sec walk to the beach. This was my saving grace. Usually at about 7am I couldn’t be bothered to lie in my creaking double bed, perspiring while listening to jackhammers. I would then put on my bikini and make my way down to the beach. It was so worth it.

 

The beach was covered in pebbles instead of sand. They were smooth, flat and cold to the touch. To find a comfortable position you had to lay your towel across them, lay down gently and wriggle your body until you made a groove. Getting in and out of the water was hard. The rocks dug into your feet causing you to slip and slide.

 

Every morning I would swim a few laps out to the buoy and back relishing every second. The water was crystal clear and clean. This was perhaps my favourite moment, duck-diving under the surface, feeling the water stream over my body, my hair cascading over my back until I was forced up to breathe. It was a moment for myself, a chance to stop and relax without having to worry about others.

After climbing out of the water I would lay on my towel, my face turned upwards, feeling the warm kiss of the sun. The droplets of water would dry on my skin and then, I knew it was time to go back.